Milky Way over a Bavarian mountain | Daily Mail Online
Getting the gear
You will need a weatherproof single lens reflex (SLR) or compact camera capable of taking long exposures, along with a wide angle or fisheye lens, tripod and cable release.
Zoom or prime lenses and a torch can also help you get the most out of your images.
Picking the place
The frequency of aurora generally increases the further north you go, with prime viewing locations at around 60-65˚ north.
The winter months between late August and early March are the best time of year for viewing.
Staying away from light pollution generally allows you to see and photograph the aurora more effectively, but light can also add interesting elements to your images, for example red and orange hues.
Taking the shot
Before you leave home, charge your batteries, preset your manual focus to just less than infinity.
Set up to get as much of the sky into the picture as possible and don’t be afraid to turn your camera up on end to compose vertical shots.
With longer exposures, the aurora can show up as a green haze rather than distinct, vibrant bands.
On bright moonlit nights shutter speeds as low as 5-7 seconds at ISO 400 work well.
Once you’ve mastered the art of imaging aurora on their own, give some attention to your surroundings.
If you have got your exposure right at the start, post processing isn’t really needed. I sometimes use the fill light function in Adobe Photoshop to lighten and emphasise a foreground element, but I never touch the lights.
Expert’s top tip
Dave Brosha is a professional photographer who was first runner-up in the ‘Earth and Space’ category at the Royal Observatory, Greenwich ‘Astronomy Photographer of the Year, 2010’ competition.
He says weatherproofing everything is essential in obtaining a perfect shot.
The best aurora seen on clear cool nights of -20 to -40°C so having equipment that can stand up to this level of punishment is essential.
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